Towering against the horizons of the Pacific Ocean is the most sacred
mountain of the Dumagat people at the northernmost part of Quezon province. It
is a rock formation that prevent the roaring and rumbling Pacific waves from
sweeping the tiny community of indigenous people in the coastal village of San
Marcelino in General Nakar town.
The walls of rocks are curtained with endangered species of trees that
are hugging the mountain for generations. In the belly of this manicured
landscape is Tulaob Cave – the most sacred place of worship of the Dumagat
people.
Dumagats from all over Quezon and neighboring provinces in the Sierra
Madre mountains converge here every August 4. It is the annual pilgrimage for
the surviving members of the this vanishing indigenous people to pay tribute to
Makedeppat — the god that protect the Dumagat Agta from the wiles of the
Pacific Ocean.
“It’s the time of the year where we pay respect to the god of our tribe
and ask for good health, protection against calamities, and for the sea too
give more of its bounties,” said Tatay Nestor.
Legend has it that it was Makeddapat who waged war and prevailed
against the gods of the Pacific seas. At the command of his voice the rocks
raised from the ocean floor to protect the Dumagats from the wiles of the
Pacific waves. The tales claimed that other gods trembled at the voice of
Makedeppat.
Tulaob, according to Tatay Nestor, means the echoes of his voice. The
Dumagats claimed that the echoes of the waves lashing through Tulaob Cave could
be heard as far as Sorsogon and other provinces. This usually happened on the
eve of the New Year, when the old parted with the new.
Visitors can access “Tulaob Cave” via Barangay Pamplona through
45-minute boat ride at a hefty amount of at least P1,200 per boat. However, the
tribe would only allow them until 3pm. But with the tribe testing my faith and
intention, the village people offered a free boat ride to send me to Tulaob
Cave.
It is impossible for the first timers to find the mouth of “Tulaob
Cave.” At high tide, it closes the lone access to any visitor. When the tide
recedes, the sand could cover its mouth that only the locals knew where to dig
to find it.
I thought my companions will accompany me all through the
“test-of-my-intention”. But after pointing the mouth of the cave offshore, he
left me alone at “Tulaob Cave”.
The adrenaline rush was picking up. While I wanted to soak myself in
this wonderful corner of natural landscape, I was trembling and sweating in
fears.
I dug the sand to squeeze myself through the tiny entrance, kneeling
and crawling to get inside. It was dark and eerie. I groped in front and above
my head to prevent myself from bumping any obstacle.
I slowly move deeper and deeper into the cave while saying, “Nandito po
ako. Gusto ko sanang bumisita sa magandang lugar ninyo. Sana po ay payagan nyo
po ako. Kung hindi po ay sana pauwiin lang po ninyo ako sa aking mga mahal sa
buhay.”
I stayed inside for three to four minutes. But it seemed like forever.
What if the rocks collapse? What if there’s snakes and other animals?
What if the tide suddenly soar to cover the entrance? What if I hear voices
answering to my words? These were questions that were playing in my minds.
Minutes later, I decided went out and saw the light of day again. I
took a deep breath and sit by the side of the entrance of the cave and told
myself, “JP, what are you doing here? What are you trying to prove?”
I went back to the village on foot, surviving the giant coastal
boulders that divided the village and Tulaob Cave. Going back to the Dumagat
village in San Marcelino, Tatay Nestor wore his sweetest smile upon seeing me
walking on the shore.
He asked me of my impression of Tulaob Cave. I told him that it is the
only church in the Philippines, or perhaps the entire world, that one must need
to kneel and crawl to enter and worship inside.
He then connected it to the essence of the faith of the Dumagat people
– “to be humble at all times especially when we come to present ourselves to
our god.”
Holding me in the arm, he said, “The gods and the guardians of Tulaob
Cave must have given their favor to you, young man. You can now fix your tent
anywhere on the our beach and stay as long as you want.”
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Congratulation Mr. Jun Pasaylo for your nice and wonderful travel experience... keep on traveling!...
Godspeed,
Becky D. de Asis
The Redline News
